La Thuile in winter is a great ski resort, particularly loved by the British, and offers over 150km of pistes including those of La Rosiere, the French resort to which it is connected. Every season brings updates to the pistes and lifts, and all levels from complete beginner to advanced competitive skier are catered for. The season is long, usually with good snow until mid April.

After a day on the slopes, or if the weather is bad, pamper yourself at the Spa in Pre St Didier, where there are outdoor hot baths with views to Mont Blanc and a vast range of (pricey) massages on offer. A free wonder is a walk up past the baths into the ‘Orrido’ (canyon) of Pre St Didier, over a Roman bridge and up along the river Dora to a truly spectacular waterfall (photostop essential!). You can also catch large trout in quieter pools (licence required).

Outside the skiing season La Thuile is quiet but beautiful. There are many well-signposted walks, such as the ‘Waterfalls’ – the first of three spectacular falls being only 15 minutes from Les Joux, easily reached from La Thuile by shuttle bus. The second and third falls are reached after crossing pine forests and meadows bright with mountain wildflowers, blueberry bushes and wild raspberries. For the energetic, the walk continues up to the Deffeyes refuge just below the Rutor glacier; you can overnight (booking essential) and walk on the glacier (consult the tourist office in La Thuile for organized excursions and equipment needed)

Local customs are still strong here. Look out for the calendar of ‘Batailles des Reines’, intensely competitive ‘battles’ between dominant cows organized throughout the valley. One is held at the Petit St Bernard Pass (French-Italian border, just above La Thuile) around mid-August. Highly recommended is also Midsummer’s Day at the Pass, the only day in the year when the setting sun drops behind the mountains in such a way that darkness falls all around, but the remains of a stone circle stay sunlit. The Pro Loco sometimes organizes Druid ceremonies and/or special celebrations, special meals at local restaurants and evening entertainment.

Courmayeur is not far off and worth a visit for people-watching, the Alpine Guides museum and as the starting point for a spectacular cable car ride up Mont Blanc and down to Chamonix on the French side (or skiing down the Mer de Glace if you dare). Courmayeur also has an ice skating rink.

Best buys: if staying in self-catering, make sure you taste the local cheeses (specially recommend the Casa della Fontina on the main Mont Blanc road in Pre St Didier, low prices and excellent quality) and also try mocetta, ham made from mountain goat (capriolo). Another local speciality is ‘lardo con castagne’, very thinly sliced pork fat with chestnuts…… an unusual dish.

To take home: lots of wooden carved objects; ‘grolle’ of all sizes for drinking mountain coffee laced with grappa or local liqueurs such as genepy.

Written by Lorraine Beccaria - Owner of Property 54665 in La Thuile, Italy